BEST MADE PROJECTS • Field Test: Bunka Knife, by Laura Silverman Guide...

Field Test: Bunka Knife, by Laura Silverman Guide to Food

Bunka, Bunka, Burning Love

Knives are very important to cooks. Without them, we are nothing. You need just two or three to be all set: a slicer, a chef’s knife and a paring knife will do. Allowed just one, opt for a lightweight Japanese bunka knife, with its elegant oak handle and thin, razor-sharp steel blade. The bunka is sort of a hybrid of a Japanese cleaver and a Western chef’s knife. It’s ideal for slicing, dicing and mincing. Made of high-carbon steel that is thinner and harder than the stainless we’re accustomed to, it can be more susceptible to chipping, especially if you hack away at big bones, and it will rust if you don’t dry it well after each use. But it also holds a superior edge for longer and quickly makes itself indispensable.

When I head out to the garden, I often take my bunka along, as it makes short work of separating tender sprigs of mint, oregano and parsley from their bushy brethren. With an easy swipe, it also cuts through the juicy stalks of my summer squash plants. Back in the kitchen, it almost seems to mince the herbs on its own. A batch of salsa verde comes together lickety split. The bunka’s also handy next to the grill, where it slices through a nicely charred rib-eye like a hot knife through butter.

Salsa Verde
The sharp, grassy flavors in this cold rustic sauce of Italian origin are great with grilled meat or fish, cheese and raw or blanched vegetables. Try it drizzled over a gratin of yellow summer squash.

2 packed cups parsley leaves
2 tablespoons oregano leaves
1 tablespoon fresh mint leaves
1 tablespoon capers, drained (or rinsed if salted)
2 cloves garlic, peeled and smashed
4 anchovy filets
2-3 tablespoons chopped sweet onion or shallots
3/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
½ teaspoon Dijon mustard
2/3 cup olive oil
sea salt & freshly ground back pepper
fresh lemon juice

Mince first 8 ingredients. They should retain a bit more individual character than in a pesto. Transfer to a bowl.

In a separate bowl, whisk together vinegar, mustard and olive oil. Add to parsley mixture and blend thoroughly. Taste and add salt and pepper as needed. Stir in a bit of lemon juice to brighten flavor and help retain color.