BEST MADE PROJECTS

Axe Restoration Project, Part 6: Hanging  

One of the last steps to fully restoring our axe is to fit it with a new handle (called a helve). This process is called ‘hanging.’ 

The tools needed are shown in fig. a. Clockwise from left to right: our replacement helve, wooden wedge (should come with helve), axe head, bastard file, coping saw, and dead blow mallet. 

We’ll be showing a Dayton patterned head first in this post. Our Jersey pattern will come a little later in this post as its replacement helve needs more work for for proper fitting. 

When choosing a new new helve, there are a few things to look for. The first is grain direction. The grain direction should run as parallel to the bit as possible as shown in fig. b. This type of grain direction will give the helve the greatest strength. When purchasing a new helve, take a look at the end of each one and purchase the one with the best grain direction. Many hardware stores will carry replacement helves for axes, and there are online resources as well. It may be a good idea to bring your axe head with you to the hardware store to ensure that it will fit the helve you purchase, as some antique axes may have differing eye dimensions than modern day axes. Helves range in length from 20” up to 36”. The length you choose is primarily a matter of taste. Although, smaller heads typically get shorter helves. A hudson bay camp axe usually gets a 28” helve, while larger single bit and double bit axes tend to be in the 32” to 36” range. The axe we’re showing is a Manhattan Axe Co. Dayton pattern. We’ve selected a 32” helve for its replacement.

We begin by test fitting our head. Firmly pressure-fit the head onto the end of the helve, it most likely won’t seat all the way to the shoulder of the helve (fig. c). Then invert the whole thing so you have the end of the new helve in one hand with the head hanging towards the floor. Strike the butt end of the helve with the mallet (fig. d). This will drive the helve down into the head. It may not seem like it should work, but it does. Pound just until the helve stops going any further into the head. Don’t worry if the helve is not fully seated into the head. Remove the helve by tapping on the bottom portion of the head. Do this cautiously as a good blow from a mallet (especially wooden or leather ones) may deform the steel.

After the head has been removed from the helve take a look at where the two came together. The dark areas on the kerf end of the helve will show the points of greatest contact (fig. e). Using sand paper, or a file, remove the markings, and test-fit again to see if the head seats any lower on the helve. You may need to repeat this step a number of times before the head seats low enough on the helve. Fig. f shows the final contours of the helve. 

For our Jersey head we’ve selected a 36” replacement helve. Because of the triangular ‘lugs’ that extend below either side of the eye we need to thin out a good portion of our new helve so that the head will seat properly. Heads with lugs, such as Jerseys and Rockaways, will not seat on a helve that has shoulders like those shown in fig. f. We thinned out the helve using a small hand plane (fig. g). It should be noted that it seems that axes and helves has gotten thicker over the years. Bits seem to have swelled, and helves especially have gotten thicker. If you have the original helve that came with your axe compare it to your new one. We’ll bet you even money that the older one is thinner than the new one. 

Once the head is seated well on the head it’s time to drive in the wedges. First, if you have more than a half inch or so of helve extending from the eye of the bit saw it down to about a quarter inch. This will allow the wedges to drive as deep as possible. The first wedge is wooden and should be driven straight into the kerf slot (fig. h). Some wedges come very thick and you may need to whittle it down to get it to sit as deep as possible. A deeper thinner wedge is better than a shallower thicker one. We apply a little non-expanding wood glue to our wedges to keep them seated. There’s also a product called Swell Lock, that, when applied to the wedge will make it swell and tighten in the kerf slot without any adhesive. Once you’ve driven the wooden wedge in as far as it will go with the mallet, use the coping saw to cut both the helve and the wedge off flush with the top of the axe head. 

Most helves these days come with a secondary metal wedge meant to be driven into the top of the helve perpendicular to the first wooden wedge. There are people who feel this is a good idea and those that disagree with it. We feel that the common sight of screws, coins, and shelf brackets driven into vintage and antique axe helves shows that a secondary wedge of some kind is needed. If you decide not to put it in, at the very least hang on to it so you can install it later if needed. 

Finish up by sanding down the top of the head and helve so that they are smooth and flush. Fig. i shows our final Jersey pattern with the metal wedge inserted. Apply linseed oil to the end grain of the helve in the eye. The wood will soak up the oil and will expand and tighten inside the eye.

For a more in depth look at how to rehang an axe we highly recommend “Getting the Hang of It” over at the U.S. Forest Service’s website.